Changing up your hair color is one of the most exciting things you can do with your look, no matter how subtle the change may be. There are so many color families to choose from–whether you're opting for natural-looking browns and blondes or experimenting with bold pinks and blues– there's something for everyone. Changing the color of your hair is often a fun experience, but people with dark hair know that doing so doesn't come without challenges. If you're starting with black hair and trying to go brown, red, green, or anything in between, the process is more difficult than those with lighter hair as the color pigments need a lighter canvas to grab onto.
Typically, black hair needs to be bleached in order for dye to show up. However, there's so much more than meets the eye when it comes to dyeing dark hair. For instance, does it matter if you naturally have dark hair or if you're just dealing with dark dye? Do you really need to use bleach if you just want a subtle shade change? And what types of hair care products should you use post-dye to keep your color looking fresh?
To answer all our burning questions, we tapped hair experts, Nikki Lee and Carolyn Aronson, to get their insights and tips. From what you should ask your colorist for to the tip that'll save you a ton of time at the salon, keep scrolling.
Meet the Expert
- Nikki Lee is a celebrity hair colorist and co-owner of Nine Zero One salon. Her clients include Charlize Theron, Heidi Klum, and Selena Gomez.
- Carolyn Aronson is the CEO and founder of It’s a 10 Haircare.
The Difference Between Coloring Virgin Hair vs. Coloring Dyed Hair
If you have virgin black hair—AKA hair that hasn't ever been dyed—you're going to have a much easier time with dyeing black hair brown than someone who has colored their hair black. "Color will not remove color, meaning you cannot just put a brown color on top of [dyed] black and it will magically turn brown," Lee explains. "You have to use a color remover or lightener first to remove the black, then layer on top of a brown color."
However, if your hair is naturally black, you can immediately go into the process of lightening the hair without lifting any previous dye—though, the hair can only lighten so much without bleach, and your colorist will probably recommend you do so in order to get noticeableresults.
Show Your Colorist Inspiration Photos
This is good advice in general for hair appointments. "We may speak different terms but we can all see the same," Lee says. And don't just bring pictures of what you want—Lee recommends showing a couple of photos of what you don't want as well.
"Pictures say a million words. Bring a photo or two of the color you desire," Aronson adds. "It will really help your stylist target your desires."
Consider the Current Health and Strength of Your Hair
The healthier the hair, the better chance you'll have of lightening it. "In order to get the hair from black to brown, consider the health and strength of your hair," Aronson says. "You will need to use bleach to lift it and that could be very drying to the hair." Because of this, it's sometimes wise to spread out your lightening appointments and prioritize your hair health in between bleaching sessions.
Come In with Clean Hair
When you get ready for your appointment, come in with clean, product-free hair, Aronson says. "Otherwise they may have to wash your hair before they apply the color," she explains. Clean hair is like a clean canvas, allowing the stylist to apply the proper ingredients to get you lightened in a healthy way.
Use a Deep Conditioning Mask Once a Week
As previously mentioned, dyeing your hair can be taxing on your strands. To keep damage to a minimum and strengthen your strands, incorporate a deep conditioning mask into your routine once a week. We recommend Oribe's Gold Lust Transformative Masque ($69) as it's jam-packed with hair silkening ingredients, like baobab, and protects hair from UV damage. (Yes, that's definitely a thing and it can mess with your color.) Another great pick is Unite Hair's 7 Seconds Masque ($50) as it's infused with shea butter and also contains hydrolyzed keratin, which is a protein that helps repair hair.
Use High-Quality Products
Using high-quality shampoo, conditioner, and (as mentioned above) hair masks will give your stylist the best chance of being able to lighten until you hit exactly the right hue. Keep an eye on ingredient labels and if you notice that your hair isn't improving with whatever products you're currently using, it could be a sign that it's time to switch. To keep color fresh, it's smart to avoid sulfates, which can strip color and dry out your hair; when you're going through the lightening process, you don't want to experience any additional dryness or damage.
Be Patient
If you take a peek at the hashtag #hairtransformations on Instagram, you'll get over a million result—many of which feature side-by-side before and afters. But what these comparisons don't always show is the amount of time and work it takes to pull off a change.
Lightening up dark hair—even going from black to brown—is a process. "You might need two or three appointments to get it to your perfect shade," Lee says. This is especially true if your hair is dyed black because removing the dye is going to be damaging to your hair.
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